Ask a Chef: What is your favorite dish to serve with turkey?
"True to my upstate New York roots, I make good old-fashioned green bean casserole, with cream of mushroom soup, and French's onions on top. We call them GB's at my house." –Anne Burrell, host of Food Network's Secrets of a Restaurant Chef "If I were to serve a Thanksgiving dinner with no turkey and all sides, I would serve scalloped potatoes with Brussels sprouts and brown butter, and mashed potatoes with homemade marshmallows on top." –Ben Ford, Ford's Filling Station, Culver City, CA "I do the turkey thing, but I love brioche stuffing. I can't get enough of it." –Michael Kramer, Voice at Hotel Icon, Houston "Instead of traditional stuffing I serve a savory caramelized onion and wild mushroom bread pudding." Tim Love, Lonesome Dove Western Bistro, Fort Worth, TXNews Feed: November 23
New York Times restaurant critic Sam Sifton is troubleshooting readers' Thanksgiving challenges. [NYT] New urban dining trends in China may signal the nation's rising prosperity. [Slate] Flavor-packed compound butters can bring your dishes to a new level. [Chicago Tribune] As the French learn to tolerate fast food, gourmet chefs offer their own interpretations. [WSJ]Eat this Word: Country Ham
WHAT? Mold gold. Dry-cured in salt, sugar, and other seasonings; slowly smoked over a hardwood fire; then aged up to 12 months, country ham originated as a way to preserve ham in pre-refrigeration days. The result is saltier and firmer than its more common processed, brine-injected cousin, and to the true ham connoisseur, there is no comparison. If you have a hankering for one, consider an outing along the backroads of Georgia, Tennessee, Kentucky, or Virginia. Most famous of all is the Smithfield ham, which must be made in Smithfield, Virginia, and which must meet criteria laid out by law. According to The American Heritage Cookbook, Queen Victoria had a standing weekly order for Smithfield ham. “Formerly it was not uncommon to find them aged six and seven years,” James Beard wrote of aged, country hams in American Cookery. “They were black, covered with mold, and looked uninviting to the average person, but they gave promise of
Eye Candy: Beard House
Scott Dolich of Park Kitchen plates a course of roasted chilies with beets and walnuts in the Beard House kitchen. View more images from the Portland chef's dinner here.
(Photo by Bobbi Lin)
On the Menu: November 22 to November 28
Here’s what happening at the Beard House next week:
Thursday, November 26, 6:00 P.M.
Thanksgiving Feast
This Thanksgiving, leave the poultry thermometer and the casserole dishes behind and spend the evening at the Beard House enjoying a bountiful holiday menu of impeccably prepared American classics from this talented team of Art Institute chefs.
For details and reservations, visit www.jamesbeard.org/events or call 212.627.2308.
(Photo by Krishna Dayanidhi)
The Bookshelf: Gastropolis Discussion Recap
A food-obsessed city with eight million people has eight million food voices, or at least that’s the premise behind the collection of 18 original essays that comprise Gastropolis: Food & New York City. The book’s editors, Annie Hauck-Lawson and Jonathan Deutsch, joined JBF vice president Mitchell Davis, who contributed to the project, for a fascinating Beard on Books reading and discussion on Wednesday. No book could contain all of the voices of a city, food or otherwise, Deutsch admitted, but in this project they attempted to capture emblematic stories of urban lives lived through food. Anchored in this multifaceted metropolis—where some grow and gather their food while others pay to be waited on and catered to—Gastropolis presents a pastiche of urban food experience, a gastro-polis, literally a city
News Feed: November 20
Chocolate milk: just what the doctor ordered? [Atlantic] Beer is a natural sidekick to Thanksgiving dinner. [SE] To the dismay of Parisians, Michelin has declared Tokyo to be the gourmet capital of world [Seattle Times] A filmed attempt to replicate Momofuku pork buns. [Slate]Recipe: Pumpkin Soufflé with Parma Ham Chips
As promised, we're bringing you the recipe for the savory pumpkin soufflé with prosciutto di Parma chips (not shown) that Paolo Parmeggiani served at the Beard House last Tuesday. Make it as a delicious, unexpected part of your Thanksgiving spread.
Eye Candy: Beard House
Eric B. LeVine of Encore Catering served these cranberry dust–coated foie gras lollipops at the Beard House on Saturday, wielding one of the more unique serving vessels we've seen in a while. Take a look at more photos from the event here.
(Photo by Tom Kirkman)
MemorEATS: Douglas Rodriguez
"My first memory of eating something was a negative experience. I ordered a Spanish tortilla omelet when I was traveling in Spain with my family. I asked for ketchup and the waiter brought me diluted tomato paste, and my father made me eat the omelet with it. It tasted horrible." –JBF Award Winner Douglas Rodriguez, Alma de Cuba, Philadelphia; Deseo at the Westin Kierland Resort & Spa, Scottsdale, AZ; and OLA at the Sanctuary Hotel, Miami Beach, FLPages
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Thursday at the #jamesbeardhouse: Jason Barwikowski, formerly of PDX's Clyde Common and Olympic Provisions: http://t.co/RLwpLqOPU7
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Cali's dairy farmers want more whey profits. NASA funds a 3D food printer. Saisons for summer. Today's food reads: http://t.co/KJ8iuHkYCk
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