The Bookshelf: Canal House Cooking
As we first turned the pages of the winter and holiday issue of Canal House Cooking—the second volume by former Saveur staffers Melissa Hamilton and Christopher Hirsheimer—we were struck by its approachability: an apple pie with an eroding crust, basking in mellow, natural light; red peppers blackening on a flecked and splattered stove top. As the authors write in their introduction, Canal House Cooking is “home cooking by home cooks for home cooks.”
“We are used to styling and shooting food for cookbooks, but when we shoot for ourselves we are quite loose about it,” said Hirsheimer via email. “There is an authenticity about the images because that is what is going on—you are seeing things in real time.”
There is an intimacy to the book as
Eye Candy: Burger 'Bun'anza
At last week's Burger 'Bun'anza, an exciting lineup of New York chefs put their unique spin on the hamburger. Madeline Poley of New York Burger Co. stacked some bacon burgers with heirloom tomatoes and leek–thyme aïoli (top left), while Anita Lo packaged her patties, pickled vegetables, and Korean barbecue sauce in steamed buns (top right). See more photos from the event here.
(Photos by Philip Gross)
News Feed: December 21
The twelve cheeses of Christmas. [The Root] Yeah, there's an app for that. [National Post] Atlantic readers' favorite recipes of 2009... [Atlantic] ...and a look back on 25 years of recipes from the Los Angeles Times test kitchen. [LAT] Rating frozen cookie dough brands. [SF Chronicle]On the Menu: December 20 to December 26
Here’s what happening at the Beard House next week:
Monday, December 21, 7:00 P.M.
Chicago’s Top Chef
Stephanie Izard made television history when she became the first woman to take the top prize on Top Chef. She aims to repeat her success with the opening of her new Chicago restaurant, Girl and the Goat. Join us at the Beard House for a special sneak peek of Izard’s winning cuisine.
Tuesday, December 22, 7:00 P.M.
Flavors of Barcelona
To celebrate the release of The Barcelona Cookbook (named after their award-winning Connecticut-based tapas bars), Andy Pforzheimer and Sasa Mahr-Batuz will pour bold Spanish wines and serve a menu of
On the Menu: 2010 Food Trends
Just about every foodie forum has prophesied what we’ll see on our plates next year, so we thought we’d get in on the act, too. Behold, the James Beard Foundation’s predictions for 2010 food trends!
Meatballs: When we heard that a meatball shop will soon open in New York City, we got a gut feeling that they will be rolling onto many a menu next year. (Seeing this slideshow on the Bon Appétit website confirmed our suspicions.) Given that mouths everywhere have yet to grow weary of the upscale burger trend that shows no signs of stopping, a drift toward these other hand-formed mounds of ground meat seems inevitable. Also:
News Feed: December 18
Look out food trucks: it's the Bustaurant! [LAT] Food-centric non-profit organizations that deserve your dollar [Salon] These beers are great to sip during the holidays. [SE] Try these spicy and boozy holiday recipes from San Francisco chefs. [SF Gate]On the Menu: A Top Chef Comes to Dinner
For those of you experiencing Top Chef withdrawal, here's a little fix: Stephanie Izard, winner of season 4, is cooking at the Beard House on Monday. Take a look at her menu:
Hors d’Oeuvre
Foie Gras Torchon with Kumquats
Broiled Oysters with Horseradish Aïoli and Pancetta
Nantucket Bay Scallops with Acorn Squash and Brown Butter
Dinner
Sweet Onion Soup with Florida Stone Crab
Duck Fat–Poached Alaskan Halibut Cheeks with Duck Confit Ravioli, Honeycrisp Apples, and Apple Jus
Pan-Roasted Triggerfish with Smoked Goat Ragoût and D’Anjou Pears
Roasted Lamb Medallions with Spiced Raisin Sauce and Niçoise Olives
Rogue Creamery Smokey Oregon Blue Cheese with Bacon-Glazed Apples and Marcona Almond Butter
To view Izard's official event page,
The Bookshelf: Momofuku
Arguably the decade’s most thrilling American chef, David Chang is the guy everyone else wants to emulate. But like his fluid, fast-and-loose menus, the guy’s formula for success is elusive—even to himself. Nevertheless, Chang and his buddy, writer Peter Meehan, dropped by yesterday’s Beard on Books to try to shed a little light on the making of the Momofuku cookbook and the cookbooks they dream of owning.
“I have this neurotic fear that our restaurants are all going to close tomorrow,” Chang confessed. “That’s sort of why we wrote Momofuku—we just wanted to chronicle everything that’s happened.”
Indeed, the book is decidedly Chang’s vision, slamming doors in the faces of convention and compromise. “I didn’t want to include a glossary of ingredients and where to get them,” the chef said. “We don’t spoonfeed
News Feed: December 17
Joyce Goldstein knows how to make matzoh balls the right way. [Chow] A defense of fruitcake [Slate] Want to end the decade with a bang? Get yourself to one of these four Chicago meals, deliciousness guaranteed. [TOC] What can be done to successfully pinpoint the culprits behind food poisoning? [Atlantic]Eat this Word: Croque Monsieur
WHAT? A ham-'n-cheese sandwich with a French twist. The classic croque monsieur, darling of cash-poor tourists and French folk-on-the-go, is buttered bread, Gruyère cheese, and lean ham, fried in clarified butter. In the good old days before even the French began to rush their meals, it was served as an hors d'oeuvre, a tea sandwich, or the main event in a (pre-cholesterol) light lunch. The modern version of this "crunchy sir" is more often a ham-and-Swiss combo, toasted in a grill press and served hot and delicious at cafes and street stalls, so even those Francophiles most pressed for time don't have to settle for McDonald's. Apparently when it crosses the ocean, this impeccably pedigreed Gallic standard gets some new clothes: this month at the Beard House, for instance, it's served with duck pastrami.
WHERE? JBF Award winner Donald Link, Ryan
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