America's Classics: Doe's Eat Place
Every one of America’s Classics has a unique story to tell, but together these restaurants represent the country’s rich fabric and illustrate how the closest communities cohere around food. As 2007 award recipient Shug Signa said about her family’s 68-year-old restaurant, Doe’s Eat Place in Greenville, Mississippi, “People come together, never meet a stranger, and it’s the American way.”
This family-owned and -operated restaurant is an icon of the culinary and cultural landscape of the Mississippi Delta. Doe’s Eat Place grew out of a 1940s grocery store that sold homemade hot tamales, eventually transforming itself into a casual steak joint that served both the African-American and white communities in segregated Mississippi. Pivotal during the civil rights era, Doe’s Eat Place has become a symbol of the region’s multiracial culture.
Learn more about America's Classics and watch a video about Doe's Eat Place by visiting
News Feed: December 8
Food & Wine will unveil its culinary predictions for 2010 on Wednesday. [Grub Street NY] Bouchon Beverly Hills is now open for lunch. [LAT] Guy Fieri's zany cooking tour has hit the road. [Boston Globe] The New York Times wine panel tastes 2007 Châteauneuf-du-Papes. [NYT]JBF News: JBF Award Winners Saddle Up for the World Equestrian Games
John Besh, Marc Vetri, and freshly enthroned Iron Chef Jose Garces are just a few of the JBF Award–winning toques who will join forces with the 2010 World Equestrian Games and the James Beard Foundation to put on Cookin’ in the Bluegrass, a 16-night dinner series in Lexington, KY. The program, taking place at the Kentucky Horse Park’s Farmhouse restaurant, will also feature local talent and strive to recreate the lavish events held at the historic James Beard House in New York City. Click here to find out more.Eye Candy: Beard House
Chef Mark Graham (second from left) and crew members form an assembly line to plate bacon-wrapped quail with Brussels sprouts, foie gras–braised carrots, and beet-poached quail eggs. Click here to see more photos of the early-November dinner.
(Photo by Philip Gross)
Eat this Word: Huckleberries
WHAT? Berry trails. Perhaps more associated with Mark Twain’s Huckleberry Finn than with fine cuisine, huckleberries grow most widely in the West, and along Midwestern rivers, like the Mississippi, on which Huck spent so many days lazing. Huckleberries come in many shades, including pink, white, blue-black, and purple, with the blue-black variety being the firmest and most widely available in the marketplace. James Beard was a fan, writing in American Cookery that they were “wonderful to the taste.” Unlike their close relatives, blueberries and cranberries, which have a multitude of soft, little seeds in their center, each huckleberry contains ten hard, small seeds, and their flavor is more tart. Huckleberries are not cultivated; their growing season is typically from June through August. According to Beard, they “make good pies and cakes and other typically American delights.”
WHERE?
News Feed: December 7
The Los Angeles Times food editors pick their 15 favorite beers. [LAT] Subtleties in menu design can influence what you order. [NYM] The history of Vietnamese coffee [Salon] Shaken or stirred? This martini primer explains how it's done. [SF Gate]Recipe: Sweet Potato Latkes
Though we've never met a person who didn't like latkes, this version could convert even the staunchest holdout. With their deep orange color and addictive, sweet-and-savory crunch, sweet potato pancakes just might give your grandmother's recipe a run for its gelt.
On the Menu: December 6 to December 12
Here’s what happening at the Beard House and around the country next week:
Sunday, December 6, 6:00 P.M.
8th Annual Greens Holiday Party
Join the James Beard Foundation Greens as we celebrate the holidays with great food and drink at the 8th Annual JBF Greens Holiday Party at the historic James Beard House. Don't miss this chance to explore our muse's home and sample culinary delights from some of the city's most exciting chefs. Master mixologist Michael Waterhouse will create delectable holiday cocktails using Bison Grass Vodka and Bull Dog Gin and a selection of fine wines from Palm Bay Imports and Stella Artois beers will also be served to keep everyone in good spirits.
Monday, December 7, 6:30 P.M.
Friends of James Beard Benefit: Milkwaukee
Tastebud: Let Them Eat Brioche!
Once a symbol of luxury, brioche is a classic, egg and butter–enriched French bread that is traditionally baked in a circular, fluted pan. Crowned with a smaller globe of dough, it becomes brioche à tête. The richness of brioche stands up to intensely savory foods like foie gras and also works well in decadent desserts. Shortly before the French Revolution, shortages of plain bread were common in poor communities. To curb starvation (and prevent uprisings), the law required that fancier breads like brioche had to be sold at a lower, regulated price. The expression “Let them eat cake,” frequently misattributed to Marie Antoinette, actually stems from this 18th-century mandate.
Brioche is no longer inciting revolution, but it is showing up on many plates at the Beard House. In fact, Michael Giletto will serve it twice, placing fennel aspic on slices of caramel brioche with fried salsify
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When you cook, you never stop learning. That’s the fascination of it.—James Beard
This week's Beard on Books features #jbfa winner John Sundstrom and his new book, "Lark: Cooking Against the Grain" http://t.co/7mDqOyQqcy
Does spam deserve a second chance? Study says your hair hints at your soda consumption. Today's food reads: http://t.co/inNicv2WXj
An update on #CookingUpChange, the @healthyschools-backed high school competition for healthier school lunch: http://t.co/1l1e0eH0Sp
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