News Feed: January 26
Haggis fans, rejoice: the once forbidden Scottish dish may soon be allowed in the United States. [Salon] What's the difference between parchment paper and waxed paper? [Chow] Bay Area brewers will show off their wares at the Winter Brews Festival this Saturday. [SF Gate] Settle into one of New York City's coziest restaurants. [TONY] Pork plus pickling equals choucroute garni. [TOC]On the Menu: Gotham Bar and Grill
After Alfred Portale wowed us with his braised artichoke ravioli at last year's gala auction, we've been counting down the days until the iconic chef's Beard House dinner. The highly anticipated meal is going down tomorrow night, for which Portale will round up his New York team (as well as the crew from his semi-new Miami outpost, Gotham Steak) to prepare this New American menu:
Cauliflower Custard with Santa Barbara Sea Urchin, Golden Osetra Caviar, and Aged Soy Sauce
Hamachi Sashimi with Asian Pear, Radishes, Honshimeji Mushrooms, and Soy–Yuzu Sauce
Truffle-Crusted Atlantic Halibut with Romanesco Cauliflower, Marcona Almonds, and Vermouth Emulsion
50-Day-Aged Niman Ranch Sirloin with Market Carrots, Vidalia Onion Rings, Bone Marrow, and Bordelaise
Meyer Lemon
Eat this Word: Romesco
WHAT? Catalan hodgepodge. This classic sauce is a specialty of the Tarragona province in the Catalonia region of northeastern Spain. About the only ingredient chefs can agree on is the special red pepper that gives the sauce its name. Some contend the formula should be nothing more than a simple mixture of olive oil, red pepper, and bread, while others liven it up with flavorful ingredients, such as garlic, wine, chili powder, paprika, almonds or hazelnuts, and vinegar to the blend. Regardless of the recipe, the final product is usually a smooth paste, typically served with grilled poultry or fish. Each spring, there is a competition among fishermen in the Serrallo district of the province to produce the best Romesco. Before thousands of spectators, the Romesco-masters—who only pass their secret recipes on to their sons—set to work with their mortars and pestles to compete for the championship title.
WHERE?
News Feed: January 25
Portland, ME, has become a craft brew destination... [Atlantic] ...and new Burger King locations will offer beer. [Chicago Tribune] Molly Watson knows how to make nachos the right way. [Chow] Coke bottles go green. [WSJ] New York's best bartenders are shaking up toasty cocktails to help you shake the winter blues. [NY Mag] Slow cookers are no longer just collecting dust in yourRecipe: Fennel and Arugula Salad
We love the fresh, bright flavors in chef Michael Giletto’s fennel and arugula salad, which he prepared at a recent Beard House dinner. Simple and delicious, this dish is perfect for a weeknight meal; adding rich duck breasts or seared scallops makes it extra special.
On the Menu: January 24 through January 30
Here’s what happening at the Beard House and elsewhere:
Monday, January 25, 6:30 P.M.
Cold Nights, Warm Bites
Come in from the cold and join the James Beard Foundation Greens for our first event of 2010. Discover the National, a hidden gem of the Lower East Side--a great place to warm up with great food and inventive drinks.
Monday, January 25, 7:00 P.M.
Tuscan Sun
From the lush olive groves and vineyards of the countryside to Florence’s fine-dining restaurants, Tuscany boasts one of the world’s richest food cultures. Todd English’s Tuscany brings the rustic flavors of the region across the pond to Mohegan Sun, where chef James Klewin’s kitchen “excels at just about everything,” as per Gayot.
Eye Candy: Icewine–Pear Granité
Chef Jason Parsons surprised guests with this extra course at last Thursday's Beard House dinner. He combined pear juice and icewine to create a tart granité, and garnished the intermezzo with flower petals, gold flakes, and a delicate twig from an icewine vine.
See more photos of Parsons's elegant menu here.
(Photo by Geoff Mottram)
News Feed: January 22
Alain Ducasse loves London, disses Spain. [Telegraph UK] Forget Champagne: this oyster stout is a new match for mollusks. [Slash Food] 2,764,800: number of chocolate chunks City Bakery puts in its cookies every year. [TONY] Kulfi takes the cupcake. [Zester Daily] San Francisco restaurateurs pay big bucks to run their businesses. [WSJ]Eat this Word: Salsify
WHAT? The world is your oyster plant. For such a mild-mannered root vegetable, salsify has attracted an unusually high number of ardent defenders and passionate detractors. Unique, delicate, superb, mild, mysterious, its champions insist. Bland, mushy, faded, forgettable, its critics rejoin.
Salsify is also known as oyster plant, because when cooked, it's alleged to taste like the mollusk. (More disagreement on this point.) There are, however, a few facts everyone concedes: Salsify is a carrot-shaped winter vegetable. Thomas Jefferson grew it, and a vegetable garden remains the best place to find it in contemporary America. It's much more common in Europe, where people use it in stews, soups, and fritters or simply sautèed in butter. White salsify and black salsify (technically called Scorzonera) are used interchangeably.
WHERE? Michael Giletto and Alina Eisenhauer's Beard
The Bookshelf: Jennifer McLagan Chews the Fat
At yesterday’s Beard on Books, author and self-labeled “fat lady” Jennifer McLagan delighted the crowd with her honest talk on fat, the most misunderstood block in the food pyramid. The discussion was largely based on her latest book, Fat: An Appreciation of a Misunderstood Ingredient, with Recipes, which took home the medal for Cookbook of the Year at last year’s JBF Awards.
Raised in Australia, McLagan recalls how she “ate fat with pleasure,” always opening the refrigerator to find three different types: butter, lard, and drippings. Fat was used in everything and no one she knew was overweight, a far-fetched world for Americans who subscribe to a religion of low fat or no fat.
McLagan also focused on health benefits of fat, specifically the nutrients in high-quality animal fat that keep us
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Here's one of the many June #jamesbeardhouse events that we're stoked for: Tim and Nancy Cushman of Boston's O Ya: http://t.co/9IpOSvyQK5
It's the truth! RT @Food52: The secret to James Beard's Strawberry Shortcake? Hard-boiled eggs: http://t.co/2OB5L8EV3o
Getting to know sunchokes. @NPRFood invents the Saltwich, the world's saltiest sandwich. Today's food reads: http://t.co/4tGWcjYXmb
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