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On the Menu: American Artisan Dinner

by jbfauthor on August 13, 2010

Kate and Matt Jennings Thanks to dairy pioneers like the Kehler brothers and Angela Miller, American cheesemaking has come a long way from the age of processed “cheese product.” Chefs also play an important role in helping these artisanal offerings reach our plates. One of them is Master Cheesemonger Matt Jennings: after apprenticing with cheesemakers all over Europe, he now spreads the good cheese gospel at Farmstead & La Laiterie, a restaurant and cheese shop in Providence. (He will also judge cheese at the Good Food Awards

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Eye Candy: Southern Sliders

by jbfauthor on August 12, 2010

Rabbit, Foie Gras, and Wild Mushroom Sliders with Pickled Shallots, Whole Grain Creole Mustard, and Potato Gaufrettes At his recent Beard House dinner, Scott Varnedoe prepared updated Southern food with classic details, like these rabbit, foie gras, and wild mushroom sliders with pickled shallots, whole grain Creole mustard, and potato gaufrettes. See more photos from the dinner here.

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News Feed: August 12

by jbfauthor on August 12, 2010

Foie Gras by Kirkman Where restaurants go wrong. [Esquire] Cooking camps for kids. [WSJ] Gardening and cooking parties help children eat their veggies. [Business Week] Bringing disappearing vegetables back to the table. [NYT] Eating on a budget: a success story. [TIME]

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Recipe: Corn Sformato with Pancetta, Tomato, English Peas, and Fontina

by jbfauthor on August 12, 2010

Corn Sformato with Pancetta, Tomato, English Peas, and FontinaAs we learned earlier this week, the definition of sformato is hard to pin down (though we do know that it’s traditionally bound by eggs and molded). But there’s nothing perplexing about this decidedly summery version from chef Scott Fratangelo, featuring the classic seasonal trinity of corn, tomato, and basil.

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News Feed: August 11

by jbfauthor on August 11, 2010

Prepping in the Beard House kitchenMeet the 2010 New York Vendy Award finalists. [HuffPo] Beer gardens are a perfect location for summertime imbibing. [NYT] Try a Meritage blend for a taste of Bordeaux. [Salon] Wine-searcher.com brings transparency to the wine industry. [LAT] Sommelier Belinda Chang shares secrets to unlocking restaurant

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Eat this Word: Sformato

by jbfauthor on August 11, 2010

Corn Sformato with Pancetta, Tomato, English Peas, and FontinaWHAT? Cooking out of the box. Sformato is ubiquitous on restaurant menus throughout Italy, yet its definition is elusive. The consonant-clustered name comes from the Italian verb sformare, meaning, “to unmold.” Predictably, the dish is cooked in a mold, or forma, and turned out onto a plate to serve. Sformati (that’s plural) can qualify as just about anything from vegetable side dishes to meaty main courses or even desserts. With a texture that can best be described as somewhere between a soufflé and flan, sformati almost always include eggs, but additional ingredients are up to the cook. Popular savory flavors include spinach, peas, or potatoes, but sweet renditions made with zabaglione, fruit, or chocolate are not uncommon. WHERE? Scott Fratangelo and Pastry Chef Jen Eunji Kim's Beard House

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In Memoriam: Michael Batterberry

by jbfauthor on August 10, 2010

Michael and Ariane Batterberry Along with the rest of the food world, we were saddened to learn of the death of food writer, historian, and publishing icon Michael Batterberry on July 28. Just a few months ago, the James Beard Foundation awarded the 2010 JBF Lifetime Achievement Award, which is given to an individual or individuals whose lifetime body of work has had a positive and long-lasting impact on the way we eat, cook, and think about food in America. Click here to read the essay about the Batterberrys ran in our 2010 Awards Program.

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News Feed: August 10

by jbfauthor on August 10, 2010

Dessert at the Beard House.What to make if you find purple long beans at your farmer’s market. [Smithsonian] The history behind restaurant week. [Atlantic] Learn how to make a tortilla española. [SE] Right now, peaches are just right. [Bon Appétit] Wild rice is still cultivated by hand. [Salon]

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Eat this Word: Purslane

by jbfauthor on August 10, 2010

PurslaneWHAT? In the weeds. The Forme of Cury, the earliest known English cookbook (published around 1390 by Richard II's cooks), asks for "purslarye" in a salad recipe; colonists brought the plant to America, where they used it as an herb and pickled it for a condiment; and a few sources say it was Ghandi's favorite vegetable. It's a main ingredient in fattoush, a Middle-Eastern bread salad, and Arabs once believed that if sprinkled around the bed, the small, oval-shaped leaves could chase away erotic dreams. (Why they'd want to, we don't know.) At some point in this country, purslane fell into disfavor. Waverly Root quotes a certain William Cobett on purslane in 1819: "a mischievous weed that Frenchmen and pigs eat when they can get nothing else." Happily, American chefs are rediscovering the herb's subtly tart pleasures. WHERE? Tom Crenshaw's Beard House Dinner

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Test Your Eat-Q: Barbecue

by jbfauthor on August 09, 2010

barbecue As summer’s final stretch approaches, we know we’ll be seeking out some seriously slow-and-low eats. And while we’re on the subject, do you know the answer to this barbecue question? Bones from this animal were found during an archaeological dig in the Czech Republic, uncovering “the world’s oldest barbecue”:
A. Brontosaurus B. Buffalo C. Woolly mammoth D. Hammerhead shark
We’ve got a whole slew of trivia, so click here to see if you really have a clue about ‘cue.

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