As the Frozen Custard Churns

by Anna Mowry on September 09, 2010

Where I grew up there were two seasons: frozen-custard season and no-frozen-custard season. Maine summers were all about our semi-weekly trips to Hodgman’s, which is open for business only from Mother’s Day to Labor Day. Sitting in the back of my parents’ Subaru, I knew we were halfway there when we passed the peeling wooden church.

Fast-forward to last summer, when I visited Hodgman’s for the first time in years, this time accompanied by friends and fellow New Yorkers. Not much had changed. The stand still bears a sagging awning that shelters dogged customers on rainy evenings. The menu is the same, too. It features parlor standards with sprinklings of Northern parlance (jimmies) and regional specialties (like the “tin roof.”)

My expectant friends plied me with questions: What’s the best flavor? How are the sugar cones? What the heck is a tin roof? (A sundae topped with chocolate syrup and peanuts.) Oh, and what is frozen custard, anyway?

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Recipe: Corn Fritters

by jbfauthor on September 08, 2010

With just two weeks of summer to go, we're clinging to the season with these addictive beer-battered corn fritters from Eric Warnstedt, chef/owner of Hen of the Wood in Waterbury, Vermont. The recipe employs the most satisfying stuff of hot-day dining (corn, beer, and deep-frying), so make a big batch for your end-of-summer sorrows. (Just keep those tears out of the frying oil, or you'll really be sorry.)

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News Feed: September 8

by jbfauthor on September 08, 2010

Dish served at a recent Beard House dinner.

Leave your fear of canning behind. [WP] Giorgio Milos, Master Barista for illycaffe, gives a primer on coffee mixology. [Atlantic] Learn to make wontons. [Salon] Need to know: genever. [TOC] The tiki bar trend. [NYT]

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Ask a Chef: Timothy Hollingsworth, What are Your Favorite Flavor Combinations?

by JBF Editors on September 08, 2010

This year’s JBF Rising Star Award winner, Timothy Hollingsworth of the French Laundry, gives us some great seasonal ingredient match-ups to make the most of late summer’s incredible bounty.

1. Eggplant, Mint, and Tamarind
“The sweetness of the tamarind complements the earthy flavor of the eggplant, and both are balanced by the freshness of the mint. At the French Laundry we like to apply this flavor combination to sautéed big fin squid from Japan. At home any light seafood dish would carry the flavors well.”

2. Tomato, Squash, Olives, and Basil
“This combination is the epitome of late summer, when the garden is producing amazing squash, tomatoes, and basil. At the restaurant I like to confit the tomatoes, brunoise the squash, olives, and basil, and serve it all over a piece of olive oil-poached cod.”

3. Grilled Bread with

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Eat this Word: Semifreddo

by jbfauthor on September 07, 2010

WHAT? A half-frozen idea. Italian for "half-cold," semifreddo is an Italian dessert made by freezing mousseline-like custards, which are often layered with ingredients like ground amaretti, nuts, or chocolate. Unlike ice cream, semifreddo is not churned. To make it edible while frozen, air is incorporated into the custard base, usually in the form of meringue or whipped cream. The air also has the effect of making the semifreddo seem less cold than it actually is, which accounts for its name. WHERE? Oliver Wolf, Shaun Crymble, and Pastry Chef Marcos Gonzalez's Beard House dinner WHEN? September 21, 2010 HOW? Warm Spiced Chocolate Cake with Local Beer Sabayon and Almond Semifreddo

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News Feed: September 7

by jbfauthor on September 07, 2010

Maryland's growing wine industry. [NYT] The symbolism of Rosh Hashana foods.... [Chicago Tribune] ...and some High Holiday recipes. [Chow] Make a dinner with figs tonight. [Bon Appétit] Some NYC restaurants lie about letter grades. [Gothamist]

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Recipe: Beet Falafel with Hemp Seed–Tahini Dressing

by jbfauthor on September 07, 2010

This take on falafel from the folks at Schaeffer’s Genuine Foods in Venice, California, has shown us how to make one of our favorite forms of handheld eating even better: beets give the fried nuggets some extra sweetness, while the recipe’s complex spice blend will have you reaching for every bottle in your pantry.

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On the Menu: September 5 through September 11

by jbfauthor on September 03, 2010

Guests mingle before dinner at the Beard House.

Here’s what’s happening at the Beard House next week: Friday, September 10, 12:00 P.M. Harvest Lunch The former executive chef of the Harrison and Citarella, Brian Bistrong has an impressive New York pedigree as well as a strong sensibility for what the city’s discerning diners want to eat. His menu at Braeburn transcends the traditional confines of comfort food, delivering dishes as sophisticated as they are crave-worthy. Saturday, September 11, 7:00 P.M. Sizzling Summer Barbecue True barbecue enthusiasts know that the country’s best offerings can be found at cutthroat ’cue competitions. Now you can also find them at the Beard House, where the championship-winning IQUE BBQ Cooking Team—a

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News Feed: September 3

by jbfauthor on September 03, 2010

Meet mahlab: a powder made from the seeds of the St. Lucy's cherry. [SE] The verdict is in: organic is better. [WP] The story behind McDonald's immortal burgers and fries. [Salon] The end of summer corn. [Ruhlman] Know the different cuts of ribs. [HuffPo]

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