Happy Hour: Letter of Marque

Clover Club tiki cocktail

 

We know you’re itching to shut down your computer and unwind for the weekend, ushering in the blissful two-day respite with a Friday evening cocktail. Get into the spirit of summer with a tropical tiki libation; one of our all-time favorites is the Letter of Marque cocktail served at Julie Reiner’s Clover Club in Brooklyn. Created by bartender Ryan Lilola, who keeps a stash of coconut cream and tiki gear with him anytime he's behind the bar, this concoction is a clever homage to an unusual tradition. 

 

“A letter of marque was essentially government-sanctioned piracy, a document that let privateers get away with acting like pirates,” he explains. “Considering that tiki was founded on escapism, this drink was a ticket for our guests to escape their daily grind and get a little rowdy." 

 

The... Read more >

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Wine Wisdom: Sustainable Winemaking with Merry Edwards

Merry Edwards on sustainable winemaking

 

2013 JBF Outstanding Wine, Beer, or Spirits Professional Award winner Merry Edwards is a longtime champion of sustainable winemaking. We caught up with Edwards (who is also curating the wine pairings for our gala this fall) to discuss her pioneering work at her eponymous Russian River Valley property.

 

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JBF: Can you give us a specific example of how a sustainable practice in your vineyards ultimately affects the quality of your wine?

 

ME: We use organic mushroom compost, a by-product from our neighbor, Gourmet Mushroom, as a supplement. In some vineyards, we apply the material on a vine-by-vine basis. It evens out the vines’ growth, giving us consistent vine size and ripening. Much of our farming energy is focused on this end result.

 

JBF: What are some of the biggest challenges you’ve faced when implementing green practices at the winery?

 

ME: We wanted to operate... Read more >

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Thanksgiving Wine Recommendations from Terroir’s Paul Grieco

Paul Grieco, winner of the 2012 JBF Award for Outstanding Wine, Beer, or Spirits Professional

 

With so many flavors on offer at Thanksgiving, the task of finding a bottle that plays nicely with all of them can make us even grouchier than our in-laws. Thankfully, we’ve enlisted Paul Grieco, who won the 2012 JBF Award for Outstanding Wine, Beer, or Spirits Professional, to do the pairing for us. His suggestions, which range from values to splurges, will take you from stuffing to turkey and back to leftovers.

 

Hirsch Zöbing Riesling 2009 ($24)

"Because nothing needs good, bracing acidity and crunchy terroir like a plate full of turkey and all the fixings."

 

Argyros Assyrtiko Santorini 2009 ($20)

"This Greek wine’s salty tang and bright, lively flavors make it the perfect palate-mate for stuffing and sweet potatoes."

 

Jean François Ganevat Les Chalasses Marnes Bleues 2009 ($65)

"When the aromas of... Read more >

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Six Bitters to Have on Hand This Summer

 

During these most idle of summer days, we need a damn good reason to abandon our towels and mindless reading. A nicely mixed drink is one acceptable excuse. To ensure that our August libations are of the low-effort, high-reward variety, we turned to Brad Thomas Parsons—author of the JBF Award–winning Bitters: A Spirited History Of A Classic Cure-All With Cocktails, Recipes, And Formulasfor suggestions for unconventional bitters that will add instant pizazz to whatever we're sipping poolside. - The Editors

 

Bartenders love to describe bitters as the salt and pepper of the bar, but I like to think of them as an entire spice cabinet of liquid seasonings. They play a pivotal role in bringing balance to well-made cocktails, and every serious home bar should have three essential bitters on hand: Angostura, Peychaud’s, and an orange bitters. While this trio will allow you to craft a multitude of classic and... Read more >

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Q & A with Roman Roth of Wölffer Estate Vineyard

 

For more than ten years, the postcard-perfect Wölffer Estate Vineyard, located on Long Island’s South Fork, has hosted our annual summer tasting, Chef & Champagne® New York. We caught up with head winemaker Roman Roth to discuss his favorite summertime wines and what’s on the way from Wölffer’s cellars.

 

JBF: What are your favorite wines to drink in the summer?

 

RR: Dry Rosés, Riesling, or white blends are perfect for the beach or the pool. Our barrel-fermented (but not overoaked!) Perle Chardonnay is a perfect match for fresh-caught local striped bass.

 

JBF: It’s no secret that Rosé is a popular choice for summer. What do you like to eat with it?

 

RR: I love cured salmon, sushi, and fresh salads with Rosé. It also goes great with barbecued chicken or grilled octopus.... Read more >

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Spirited Artisans

 

After states lifted Prohibition-era distilling bans a few years ago, craft spirit producers started to crop up in cities all over America. Jamie Feldmar reports on the comeback of the urban distillery.

 

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Move over inner-city farmers, rooftop beekeepers, and backyard chickens. It’s time to meet the latest urban industry: moonshine.

 

Well, not exactly; it’s legal. In recent years, a growing number of craft spirit producers have been building aboveboard distilleries in city centers, eschewing wide-open spaces in exchange for the opportunity to connect directly with their customers. Inspired by the do-it-yourself philosophy of the local-food movement, they’re injecting that same spirit into, well, spirits.

 

During Prohibition (1920–1933), moonshiners illicitly distilled corn mash into low-grade liquor with a smell and taste so strong it’s a wonder anyone wanted to smuggle it at all. After the repeal it became... Read more >

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Tastebud: Another Round

More than a decade ago I saw the cocktail future while vacationing with friends in Tokyo. I was led through back alleys of Ginza and into unmarked elevators in Shibuya to swank bars where tuxedoed bartenders—they weren’t called mixologists yet—shook, swizzled, and stirred delicious drinks into the wee hours of the morning. Most memorable among them was Bar Tokyo, where four white-jacketed bartenders serviced six stools and the free snacks included transcendent sashimi and other beautifully plated amuse-bouches fitting of our $600-plus tab. And then there was the subterranean Alcohall, where I first saw blocks of ice chipped by hand into the perfect crystalline spheres that rotated in our glasses as we drank.

 

The origin of the Japanese ice ball, as it has come to be known, was based on the logic that minimizing the surface area of ice in a drink will minimize melting and therefore dilution. It’s also totally cool. There are inexpensive molds that help you achieve an icy orb, but most have the problems of trapping air in the water as it freezes, which increases melting, and/or produces an unsightly seam. That explains the gadget every cocktailian covets: the... Read more >

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Outstanding Drinks Across America

A map of all James Beard Foundation Outstanding Bar Program award semifinalists

The next time you want to wet your whistle in one of these cities, check out the following restaurants and watering holes—all semifinalists for the new JBF Award for Outstanding Bar Program—for classic cocktails as well as innovative tipples (and beer, too!).

 

1. The Zig Zag Café Seattle
COME HERE FOR: The extensive selection of whiskies, rums, and cachaças, plus a rotating menu of more than 20 cocktails, such as the Sarah Law.

 

2. Clyde Common Portland, OR
COME HERE FOR: A Barrel-Aged Negroni (a traditional gin negroni aged for 2 months in used whiskey barrels) or a Kingston Club.

 

3. Beretta San Francisco
COME HERE FOR: Handcrafted cocktails like the Kentucky... Read more >

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Bar Wisdom: Beverage Classes Around the Country

James Beard Foundation senior editor Anna Mowry reports on beverage classes around the country

 

Bars have always been dependable places to unwind, enjoy a drink, and get some therapy (or even plot a revolution). But lately some watering holes, including the below semifinalists for our new Outstanding Bar Program award, are also offering their customers an education. Here's what you can learn at the following spots.

 

Anvil Bar & Refuge, Houston (anvilhouston.com)
Located in a remodeled, half-century-old tire store, this establishment is owned and operated by a trio of professed “cocktail freaks.” You can sense their enthusiasm through the generous offerings at the bar’s monthly classes: guests typically get to taste up to eight spirits and three cocktails per session.

 

Rivera, Los Angeles (riverarestaurant.com)... Read more >

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Wine Wisdom: Extreme Wines

Vines planted on slopes along the Mosel River in Germany

 

When we dream of taking a jaunt to wine country, what usually springs to mind are idyllic scenes of graceful hills and orderly vines. But when Mother Nature has her say, the world of wine isn’t always so tidy and tranquil. Here are four examples of formidable winemaking, from harrowing harvests to plundering pests.

 

Vertiginous Vineyards

In areas of Germany’s Mosel region, Riesling vines are planted on 45-degree cliffs that loom over the river of the same name. Mechanical harvesting is impossible on such a dramatic incline, so workers have to strap on harnesses and rappel down the terraced slopes to gather grapes. But the tough landscape has its purpose: it provides the fruit with maximum exposure to the sun, essential for developing flavor and body in such a cool climate.

 

Hints of Lava

Steep vineyards are of lesser concern to vintners on... Read more >

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