Recipe: Peanut Soup with Grilled Peaches

Customers may flock to Chicago and Destin, Florida's Lillie's Q with its superlative barbecue in mind, but they soon discover that there's also plenty to like about chef Charlie McKenna's refined interpretations of classic Southern comfort foods. We recently enjoyed his lightened take on peanut soup, a recipe that's rooted in Colonial Virginia. Peanut soup is typically served hot, but McKenna's version is thoroughly chilled. He lifts the soup's flavor with a drizzle of reduced sugarcane vinegar, then garnishes the dish with grill-stamped peaches, scallions, and toasted peanuts.
Recipe: Clams with Country Ham Vinaigrette and Candied Orange

When Halcyon, Flavors from the Earth's Marc Jacksina and fellow Charlotte-based chef Blake Hartwick started designing their Beard House menu, they immediately wanted to work with clams, specifically those from Rappahannock River Oysters, one of their most valued purveyors. The first idea to spring up was clams casino, the bacon and bread crumb–laden classic that enjoys heavy rotation in Rhode Island. Equipped with their Southern larders, Jacksina and Blake got to work on this regionally inspired spin. Benton's country ham was an obvious reliever for the bacon, so Jacksina blended it with horseradish and Tabasco to make an energized vinaigrette. Chef Blake... Read more >
Market Haul: August 7, 2012

Packed with tomatoes, cucumbers, eggplant, watermelon, and peaches, this week's CSA box is about as summery as it gets. Not sure what to do with all those green peppers? Neither are we, but we'll be coming up with some ideas in a green pepper problem-solving post later this week, so stay tuned.
The Haul: cucumbers, fennel, tomatoes, baby watermelon, green bell pepper, green long peppers, zucchini, eggplant, yellow onions, donut peaches, blackberries.
The Menu Ideas:
Grilled Achiote-Rubbed Red Snapper [JBF]
Achiote is a combination of crushed annatto seeds, vinegar, salt, garlic, and spices, and can be found at Latin markets and some grocery stores. A simple sauté of fennel, summer squash, and onion completes... Read more >
Recipe: Peach Tarte Tatin

For a high-summer spin on classic tarte tatin, chef Corey Heyer of the Bernards Inn in Bernardsville, New Jersey, trades in apples for juicy peaches. The variation doesn't stop there: instead of cooking the fruit over a layer of sugar and butter, Heyer makes the caramel separately, then adds the peaches and simmers them until puckery. The fruit is then transferred to a pie dish and draped with a sheet of puff pastry before baking. But, in keeping with tradition, there's still the swift drama of flipping the pan and the big reveal of the tarte's fruit-bejeweled face. The recipe may not sit well with purists, but that just leaves more for us. (And sooner than we know it, there will be plenty of time for those apples.)
July's Best Recipes

Oysters with Spicy Tomato Granité
Lia Fallon tops oysters with a Bloody Mary–inspired garnish, giving the bivalves an invigorating kick.
The Chinese bao bun takes the place of the standard-issue hot-dog bun in this recipe from Simpson Wong.
Tarte Tropézienne with Strawberries and Pistachios
Craft pastry chef Meredith Tomason's version of this traditional French pastry consists of a creamy, orange blossom–scented filling sandwiched inside a golden wheel of brioche.
... Read more >
Recipe: Corn Bisque with Crema

Grilled ears of corn, caked in butter, lime juice, and chili powder, are one of summer's greatest, messiest backyard treats. But for gatherings that merit food with more finesse, Brian Roche of Boston's Lolita Cocina & Tequila Bar has translated that winning Mexican formula into an elegant bisque. He keeps the ingredient list short, letting the corn's flavor sing loud and clear. The recipe does call for a good pinch of sugar, but if you're using corn that's especially sweet, you may not even need it.
Recipe Roundup: A North Carolina–Style Barbecue

Here's how to throw the best party of the summer: Buy a massive cut of pork shoulder and fire up your grill. Rub the pork with dry spices and cook it nice and slow over smoldering charcoal all day long. In the meantime, make a mess of sides and a sweet, biscuit-topped fruit cobbler. Invite the neighbors over. Don't forget the beer.
Ted Allen loves a slow-cooked pork shoulder, particularly when the tender meat is shredded, slathered with a vinegary, western North Carolina-inspired sauce, and piled high onto toasted buns.
Pickled greens? Yes and yes. Though minced cabbage is a more traditional accompaniment to this type of regional barbecue, these sweet-and-sour greens really cut through the rich, fatty pulled pork.
Hush... Read more >
In Season: Gooseberries

Ever eaten gooseberries? The slightly fuzzy, tart berries are very popular in traditional British cooking, but don't get a lot of press stateside. A cousin of the currant, gooseberries range in color from pale green to dark purplish-red, getting muskier as they ripen. They aren't quite sweet enough to eat out of hand, but they become jammy and bright when cooked down with a bit of sugar. Gooseberries are in season from May through August, but they're at their peak in July.
How to Store: Like most berries, gooseberries should be stored in the fridge unwashed for 2 to 5 days. Don't have time to make a batch of jam or curd right now? Freeze them. Just wash the berries, pat dry, and then place on a cookie sheet in the freezer. Transfer frozen berries to an airtight container and keep in the freezer for up to a year.
How to Cook: Remove the stem and tail of each berry before cooking. Gooseberries are delicious in a range of desserts, but the simplest way to cook them is... Read more >
Recipe: Olive Oil Cake with Olive Oil Pudding and Plums

We were seduced by the full flavor and dense, moist crumb of olive oil cake years ago, but St. Louis–based chef John Griffiths has just now turned us onto a treat of a similar ilk: olive oil pudding. Prepared like a classic custard, the pudding is irresistibly fruity and aromatic. Griffiths serves it next to olive oil cake and macerated plums.
Recipe: Lobster Buns with Shiso Pesto

In the minds of lobster roll aficionados, a perfectly toasted hot dog bun is the undisputed vessel for buttered or mayo-dressed crustacean. But New York City's Simpson Wong challenged this presumption at last weekend's Chefs & Champagne, where he nestled lobster meat in Chinese bao buns—the ones you've seen at dim sum brunches or hugging pork belly at Momofuku. Wong fries each bun for only a couple minutes, enough time to crisp the exterior while preserving its inner fluff. Building on this Asian spin, he tosses his lobster in a garlicky, shiso-based pesto that's juiced up with fish sauce and bird's-eye chili.
Watch out, hot dog buns. Get the recipe here.
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When you cook, you never stop learning. That’s the fascination of it.—James Beard
This week's Beard on Books features #jbfa winner John Sundstrom and his new book, "Lark: Cooking Against the Grain" http://t.co/7mDqOyQqcy
Does spam deserve a second chance? Study says your hair hints at your soda consumption. Today's food reads: http://t.co/inNicv2WXj
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