Anticuchos. Tiradito. Costillitas. For the uninitiated, dinner at Picca, Ricardo Zarate's Peruvian cantina in Beverly Hills, can be a revelatory foray. Even flan, the Latin world's totemic dessert, is rebooted with the addition of mosto verde pisco, the crème de la crème of South American brandy. The spirit is distilled from partially fermented must, which lends greater complexity and freshness to the finished product. Zarate crowns his flan with strawberries that have been cooked in brown sugar, lemon, honey, and more brandy.
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