Eat this Word: Madeleine
WHAT? Sweet seashells. These delicate, scallop-shaped cookies have a history that long predates Proust's memory stimulant. Culinaria France recounts what sounds like a legend to us, that the cookies first became popular back in the 18th-century, when the Duke of Lorraine, a consummate party host, found himself short a pastry chef while entertaining one night. With no time to spare, the Duke was forced to turn to his chambermaid Madeleine to create sweets for his guests. She whipped up her grandmother's airy, bite-sized cakes and, thus, the madeleine was born. Chances are her grandmother, if she existed, came from Commercy, the town whose bakers have been known for centuries throughout France for their delicate, hump-back madeleines. The batter is a simple mixture of eggs, sugar, and flour; it is a molded pan that gives madeleines their distinct appearance. When fresh from the oven, the cakey cookies have a moist and light interior and crisp outer
Eye Candy: Molasses Tasting
When Melissa Close-Hart cooked at the Beard House last month, she sweetened her trio of desserts with sticky and soulful molasses. From left to right: molasses–ginger madeleine with orange caramel; molasses crème brûlée (get the recipe!); and a molasses cannolo.
Check out more images of chef Close-Hart's dinner at the James Beard House.
Eye Candy: Savory Madeleines
JBF Award Winner Georges Perrier and Nicholas Elmi—both of the acclaimed Le Bec-Fin in Philadelphia—served these delicious savory madeleines at their Beard House dinner last month. Click here to see more photos from the elegant menu.
(And check out the madeleine recipe here).
Recipe: Rosemary Madeleines
Our recipe tester loved the taste of these charming madeleines from Le Bec-Fin's Nicholas Elmi. The cookies are flavored with fragrant rosemary, tangy orange zest, and soulfully sweet brown sugar, which fuse together into an elegant, sweet-and-savory combination that's totally intoxicating. If you don't already own a madeleine pan, this is the perfect excuse to get one.
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