Recipe: Miso Squid from the JBF Award–Nominated "Preserving the Japanese Way" Cookbook

 

No one can deny the popularity of salted, pickled, and fermented foods. Nearly every menu we come across at the Beard House features some form of preserved item—from pickled cranberries to salt herring to preserved Meyer lemon, there’s no doubt that preserved foods are de rigueur​ right now. But this palate-expanding trend has long been an essential method to extend the harvest in kitchens around the globe. In her latest cookbook, Preserving the Japanese Way: Traditions of Salting, Fermenting, and Pickling for the Modern Kitchen, Nancy Singleton Hachisu documents Japan's centuries-old techniques that conserve and preserve foods. Featuring Hachisu’s artful yet... Read more >

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Beard House Recipe: Braised Beef Short Ribs with Kimchi Dressing and Spicy Pickles

Photo by Clay Williams

 

Four-time James Beard Award nominee Justin Devillier celebrated the 12th anniversary of his New Orleans hot spot La Petite Grocery at his recent Beard House dinner, where he wowed diners with innovative takes on classic Big Easy flavors. With each successive course, Devillier presented an unexpected twist, from blue crab beignets with malt vinegar aïoli to handmade bucatini with Louisiana turtle bolognese. But the showstopper amongst this field of standouts was his braised short ribs course, which married Louisiana fare with Asian flare. The fork-tender beef, braised for hours and spiked with a root beer–infused sauce, forms a richly umami-forward base to stand in stark contrast for the bright heat of the cucumbers pickled in a kimchi-inspired brine. Finished with a sprinkling of roasted peanuts, this dish is an all... Read more >

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What We're Reading: September 8, 2015

 

Combine two of your guilty pleasures with these pickled French fries. [Bon Appétit

 

There’s a new-old sandwich cookie on the market: Hydrox has made its return. [Grub Street

 

New reports reveal the American Egg Board has been waging a multi-year campaign to discredit Hampton Creek. [ABC

 

A growing contingent of farmers are planting wheat and attempting to revive America’s local grain supplies. [Edible Manhattan... Read more >

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Spring Recipes: Radishes and Turnips

 

The spring's first radishes and turnips are often the best of the season: crisp, almost juicy, with a pleasant bite. We like to dip breakfast radishes into sweet, creamy butter and slice small, white turnips into salads, but sometimes figuring out how else to cook with them can be a puzzle. To help us rethink these roots, we found several dishes to try in the coming weeks:

 

Miso-Honey–Glazed Turnips [Fine Cooking]

A tablespoon of white miso adds a savory note to these sweet yet peppery turnips.

 

Roasted Radishes with Radish Greens [F&W]

Is there any vegetable that doesn't benefit from roasting? Make this dish now, before it gets too hot to turn the oven on.

 

Pink Pickled Turnips [... Read more >

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Small Batch Cooking

 

Suzanne Cope is a Brooklyn-based author and food studies scholar whose recent book, Small Batch: Pickles, Cheese, Chocolate, Spirits and the Return of Artisanal Food, gives a history of artisanal food in the United States and looks at the issues surrounding craft food production through conversations with over 50 food entrepreneurs. She talked to us about the inspiration for the book and the future of artisanal food, and gave us a recipe for Mediterranean greens that incorporates one of her favorite small batch foods.

 

(Join Suzanne for a conversation and tasting with local food artisans at the 92nd Street Y in NYC on Wednesday, June 3.)

 

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JBF: How did you become interested in small batch food?

 

Suzanne Cope: Both of my... Read more >

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What We're Reading: March 16, 2015

Bacon and Eggs

The international history of Irish soda bread. [American Food Roots]

 

Why your deli sandwich comes with a pickle. [Mental Floss

 

A defunct New Jersey factory is slated to become the world’s largest indoor farm. [The Grist

 

Wake up with Kevin... Read more >

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Ask a Chef: Make or Buy Pickles?

 

While it may seem that the scale has tipped toward housemade ​everything, even top toques will admit that the best option sometimes lies outside the restaurant kitchen. We asked chefs from around the country to spill about what they source in and out of house. In our first installment, the pros dish on their pickling preferences.

 

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JBF Award Winner Ashley Christensen, Beasley’s Chicken + Honey, Chuck’s, Fox Liquor Bar, and Poole’s Downtown Diner, Raleigh, North Carolina: 

“We make all kinds of pickles in-house. At Chuck's, we do dill cucumber burger pickles, at Beasley's we pickle green tomatoes for the fried chicken thigh biscuits, and at Poole's we have our pickled spring ramps and the fermented beet tops that we use to spike relishes and mayos. With all of the bounty of North Carolina, it’s not a question of to pickle or not, it’s what to pickle next.”

 

 

JBF Award Winner Maria... Read more >

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What We're Reading: January 8, 2015

 

In the midst of Russia’s economic struggles, a black market for cheese has emerged. [Kitchenette

 

New studies suggest traffic light labeling could help us eat better. [Civil Eats

 

Don’t toss the brine out with the bathwater: unexpected uses for pickling liquid. [Serious Eats

 

It’s stout season! Break out of your Guinness rut with one of these alternative brews. [The Kitchn

 

Opinions are changing on the value of fake meat. [... Read more >

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What We're Reading: December 2, 2014

 

Check out these oyster pearls of wisdom. [FR

 

How a vegan butcher shop works. [Eater

 

Love Girl Scout cookies? You can now buy them online. [NYT

 

The internationally popular potato. [First We Feast

 

Up your pickle game with this secret ingredient. [Zester Daily

 

McDonald’s: now coming to a church near you? [... Read more >

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Recipe Roundup: May 15, 2013

Pan-Seared Scallops with Spring Pea and Grana Padano Purée

 

After a long winter here on the East coast, it finally feels safe to put away the soup pot and the braising pan and start eyeing the spring produce that's begun to appear at our local farmers' markets. Here are some of the recipes we'll be making to celebrate the better-late-than-never arrival of spring:

 

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Pan-Seared Scallops with Spring Pea and Grana Padano Purée [JBF]

Impressive enough for a dinner party, but so easy it works as a weeknight standby, this simple scallop dish comes together in less than 20 minutes.

 

 

Ramp Pizza [Smitten Kitchen]

Deb Perelman's adaptation of Motorino's signature spring pizza is all about... Read more >

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