What We're Reading: July 17, 2014

Chips

 

Salt and vinegar, barbecue, and … cappuccino? Lay’s offers up new consumer-created flavors. [Food Beast

 

One man’s quest for the nation's best ballpark hot dog. [Smithsonian

 

The latest yogurt innovation: buffalo milk. [The Globe and Mail

 

Dip into some nut butter trivia. [Food Republic

 

Why do we refrigerate our eggs? [ABC

 

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Ingredient Spotlight: Green Strawberries

green strawberries

 

When strawberries arrive at markets in spring, brightening folding tables like rescue flares, they affirm the mantra of the seasonal eater: good things come to those who wait. But some chefs have intercepted the fruits before peak ripeness, and now green strawberries, more tart and acidic than their red elders, are showing up on menus at the Beard House and at high-end restaurants around the country.  

 

Whether it signals a new, more subtle shading on the palate of seasonality, or a more elastic idea of what's edible, the trend itself has been developing for a while: in the first season of The Mind of a Chef, aired in 2012, René Redzepi improvised a dish of raw scallops, pea juice, and raw green strawberry slices for David Chang.

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Recipe: Crespelle with Red Wine Strawberries and Ricotta

Cullen Campell's recipe for Crespelle with Red Wine Strawberries and Ricotta, adapted by the James Beard Foundation

 

Crespelle may sound exotic, but if you've ever tucked into a crêpe, you already know a good deal about this delicate Italian pancake. Just like their French analogs, crespelle are made by pouring a paper-thin layer of batter into a nicely oiled pan, cooking it until golden on both sides, and wrapping the cake around sweet or savory fillings.

 

In this recipe, chef Cullen Campbell loads fresh ricotta and wine-soaked strawberries into crespelle made with 00 flour, a powder-fine Italian flour that yields a more tender pancake. We like to macerate our berries in a fruit-forward Nebbiolo from Piedmont.

 

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Recipe: Vanilla–Pisco Flan with Roasted Strawberries

Ricardo Zarate's recipe for Recipe: Vanilla–Pisco Flan with Roasted Strawberries, adapted by the James Beard Foundation

 

Anticuchos. Tiradito. Costillitas. For the uninitiated, dinner at Picca, Ricardo Zarate's Peruvian cantina in Beverly Hills, can be a revelatory foray. Even flan, the Latin world's totemic dessert, is rebooted with the addition of mosto verde pisco, the crème de la crème of South American brandy. The spirit is distilled from partially fermented must, which lends greater complexity and freshness to the finished product. Zarate crowns his flan with strawberries that have been cooked in brown sugar, lemon, honey, and more brandy.

 

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Recipe: Strawberry–Red Wine Semifreddo

 

If you're entertaining a big crowd this Independence Day, we submit to you this recipe for meringue-lightened strawberry semifreddo from Jason Bond of Cambridge's Bondir. Flavored with a cup of red wine and frozen in a loaf pan, the finished dessert can be sliced and distributed in minutes.  

 

Get the recipe here

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Recipe Roundup: Strawberries

strawberry recipes from the James Beard Foundation

 

This summer, treat yourself to strawberries from the farmers' market, where these sweet and fragrant gems are at their very best. While there's nothing like eating them straight from the carton, we'll also be using them to make these unique desserts.

 

Strawberries with Honeyed Mascarpone and Balsamic Vinegar
Keep it simple and layer marinated strawberries with creamy, honeyed mascarpone, then top with a drizzle of balsamic vinegar for a perfect parfait with bite.

 

Goat Cheese Panna Cotta with Grand Marnier–Soaked Strawberries
Elevate this classic Italian dessert with the tangy complexity of goat cheese and strawberries macerated in Grand Marnier. A web of sliced shiso leaves adds an extra... Read more >

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June's Best Recipes

Wild Mushroom Stew with Egg YolkOrange–Marcona Almond Salad with Pineapple Granita Beat the summer heat with this simple, elegant, and refreshing salad from Jehangir Mehta. Chilled Sorrel Soup with Jonah Crab Salad and Jerusalem Artichokes Michael Lomonaco may be known for steaks, but this tangy soup proves that he also has a way with lighter fare. Wild Mushroom Stew with Egg Yolk Use any combination of wild mushrooms in this rich stew from Clyde Common's Chris DiMinno.

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