Beard House Highlight: Whitefish Crudo with Citrus, Mango, Purslane, Pickled Fresno Chiles, and Chile Oil


Whitefish Crudo with Citrus, Mango, Purslane, Pickled Fresno Chiles, and Chile Oil / Phoenix Chowdown


Usually, when I hear that a dish contains whitefish, I immediately think of the creamy, smoky, fishy salad that my grandmother and mother love to schmear on a bagel—a spread that I've never embraced and have actively tried to avoid. But at Upward Projects's Beard House dinner last month, all thoughts of the intensely pungent Jewish staple of my childhood have been all but erased. Chris Newstrom, the talented chef at the helm of this Phoenix-based restaurant group, opened my eyes and my palate to the wonderful world of whitefish—this time reimagined as a late-summer crudo. Incredibly fresh and light, the... Read more >

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Eat this Word: Gefilte Fish

gefilte fishWHAT? Something fishy. Nowadays, not many dishes require you to keep live animals in your bathtub, but that’s how most traditional recipes for this Jewish delicacy begin. The live animal was usually a carp, and you kept it flapping in the tub to ensure freshness. Once the fish was killed and gutted, you removed the flesh, chopped and seasoned it, and stuffed it back into the skin to poach. (Gefilte is Yiddish for “stuffed.”) Served chilled with a little horseradish, gefilte fish was thus an appropriate dish for the Sabbath, when heating food is proscribed by Jewish law. These days, most cooks who make gefilte fish purchase already ground carp, pike, whitefish, or a combination, season it, and shape it into balls. There are two principal styles, peppery and sweet, which are said to roughly correspond to different regions of eastern European heritage—Polish Jews make their gefilte fish with extra sugar; Russian Jews use more ground pepper. Perhaps because of

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JBF Kitchen Cam