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Eat this Word: White Truffles

by jbfauthor on July 13, 2009

White TrufflesWHAT? Treasured tuber. “Nobody dares admit that he has been present at a meal where there was not at least one dish with truffles,” wrote France’s favorite foodie, Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, in his Physiology of Taste (1825). Truffles are mysterious, underground fungi that grow in some areas, on some trees (mostly oak), in some years. They have been known throughout history, though their popularity peaked during the nineteenth and late twentieth centuries, right up to our time. Truffles are hunted by dogs and pigs (although some people swear by flies) trained to recognize the unique, pungent truffle scent. Of the 100 varieties of truffles grown naturally around the world, white truffles (tuber magnatum pico), also known as Alba truffles or Italian truffles, are the most expensive variety on the market (a three-pound sucker went for $330,000 in late 2007, setting the record for a single truffle’s price tag). Although they are also

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On the Menu: July 13 to July 18

by jbfauthor on July 10, 2009

Kitchen Here’s what happening at the Beard House and around the country next week: Monday, July 13, 6:30 P.M. Friends of James Beard Benefit: Chefs for Scher Chef Laurent Tourondel of the BLT empire hosts a group of illustrious chefs—including Bobby Flay, Scott Conant, and Jean-Georges Vongerichten—at this exciting walk-around tasting event in celebration of late restaurateur Steven Scher. Proceeds will benefit the Steven Scher Memorial Scholarship for Aspiring Restaurateurs and the Beard Foundation. Monday, July 13, 7:00 P.M.

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News Feed: July 10

by jbfauthor on July 10, 2009

G-8 leaders have pledged $20 billion to help developing countries grow more food [NYT] Japanese scientists plan to design and create a super breed of bluefin tuna [Telegraph] Tests on contaminated Nestlé Toll House cookie dough suggest that the product contained multiple strains of bacteria [WP]

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Eye Candy: Beard House

by jbfauthor on July 10, 2009

Monkfish Last month Top Chef alum Ariane Duarte prepared some special dishes—including this monkfish with New Jersey corn salsa and mushroom broth—to pair with exceptional summer rosés. June 29, 2009, The Beard House, NYC (Photo by Joan Garvin)

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MemorEATS: Missy Robbins

by jbfauthor on July 09, 2009

"When I was five years old, I visited Israel with my parents. I had the opportunity to taste unpasteurized fresh milk on a kibbutz. I quickly spit it out and ran out of the dining room. Had I known then how great unpasteurized milk is, that never would have happened." –Missy Robbins, A Voce, NYC

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Recipe: Zuccotto

by jbfauthor on July 09, 2009

BerriesThis mixed berry charlotte from chef Tony Liu of Morandi is the perfect dessert for a small summery dinner party. Although the presentation, with alternating blackberry- and raspberry-dipped lady fingers, looks dramatic, this recipe is actually deceptively simple.

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Eye Candy: Beard House

by jbfauthor on July 08, 2009

Endive with octopus Roasted octopus with capers, smoked paprika, and endive, an hors d'oeuvre prepared by Joel Harloff at a dinner celebrating Hall Wines of Napa Valley. June 8, 2009, The Beard House, NYC (Photo by Michael Johnston)

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News Feed: July 8

by jbfauthor on July 08, 2009

The city of Napa, once propelled by booming wine tourism, now faces an uncertain future [LAT] More and more high-end American wineries are struggling to make ends meet [WSJ] How did such a rainy June impact farmers' crops? [NYT] The evolution of mozzarella production in the United States [Atlantic] Top Chef 6 contestants announced [Eater]

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Eat this Word: Boiled Peanuts

by jbfauthor on July 08, 2009

Boiled PeanutsWHAT? Dixie Dorito. With their quirky Lee Bros. Boiled Peanuts Catalogue, Matt and Ted Lee brought this Deep South treat to the attention of New Yorkers about a decade ago. The Lee Bros. catalogue, which can be found online at www.boiledpeanuts.com, offers lots of tips about the snack, not to mention an “I brake for boiled peanuts” T-shirt. Their peanuts, the siblings promise, “are guaranteed to turn any party into a cultural event.” To make the snack, raw unshelled peanuts (either fresh “green” or dry) are boiled in salted water for as much as two hours. The resulting snack is closer to edamame than to roasted peanuts, and, like edamame, is eaten by popping open the shell and slurping the peanut and salty brine. In many parts of the south, boiled peanuts are sold as a roadside snack. In Hoppin’ John’s Lowcountry Cooking, Southern food expert John Martin Taylor wrote, “No one knows the origin of our singular treat, but to tho

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MemorEATS: Keith Luce

by jbfauthor on July 07, 2009

"We had wild asparagus growing on our family farm in Long Island, and I used to go hunting for it with my grandmother in the late spring. She was from the South and believed first and foremost in natural ingredients and freshness. She would always say, “Sugar, we need to start the water boiling before we come home with the asparagus. If we have to wait for it to boil, it won’t be fresh enough.'" –JBF Award Winner Keith Luce

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