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What We're Eating

JBF Editors

December 01, 2014

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Vinny Dotolo and Jon Shook pasta dish

When our editors aren't thinking about food, writing about food, or researching food, they're—you guessed it—eating it. This month's installment of "What We're Eating" includes a sublime affogato and two eye-opening pastas.

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Maggie Borden, Assistant Editor: "The toasted rye agnolotti with lamb were a fleeting item at Boston's Alden & Harlow, but they left an indelible mark on my dinner there last month. The dish had been reworked literally the night before, so my table and I were among the first to try this brand new iteration, which included the bright contrast of mint and jalapeño inside the warm little packages of juicy lamb. For a New Yorker usually limited to pastrami sandwiches, the rye pasta was a revelation. Hopefully by the time I make it up to Boston again, Alden & Harlow will have brought back this showstopper."

Anna Mowry, Senior Editor: "I used to think that a classic affogato was non-negotiable perfection. Leave it to the Roman’s crew, the masters of underselling and then overdelivering, to prove me wrong. On a recent visit, I finished a stellar lunch with their affogato with fennel ice cream and Sambuca. The bitter sweetness of the ice cream and spirit were brilliant complements to the espresso. I would happily eat this for dessert any night, or mainline it for my morning caffeine fix." 

Elena North-Kelly, Senior Editor: "Upholding their reputation as innovators of the Los Angeles dining scene, Son of a Gun's Vinny Dotolo and Jon Shook rendered me speechless with their creative spin on a classic Neapolitan pasta dish. Riffing on the aglio e olio preparation (translation: garlic and oil) and combining elements from the beloved linguine alle vongole, the talented duo crafted a dish that was a nod to Italian tradition, but full of their signature whimsy. Their take: linguine with succulent clams, a luxurious aglio e olio sauce made with silken uni, fiery chile flakes, and crispy, garlicky bread crumbs. My dining companion and I just stared at each other, silent and wide-eyed, after the first bite."