Harissa

• 15 dried chiles de árbol
• 2 dried guajillo chiles
• 1 dried ancho chile
• 1 tablespoon whole cumin
• 1 1⁄2 teaspoons whole coriander seeds
• 2 cloves garlic
• 1 1⁄2 tablespoons lemon juice
• 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
• 2 teaspoons salt
• 1 1⁄2 teaspoons smoked paprika
• 1 teaspoon tomato paste
• 1⁄2 cup olive oil

Bring 2 cups of water to a boil in a small saucepan. Add the dried peppers and remove from heat. Let steep for 1 hour.

Strain the peppers, pat them dry, and gently pull them open to de­seed with your fingers. Here’s a trick: keep a bowl of water next to you and dip your fingers in the water to rinse off the seeds as you work. You want to get rid of them all; otherwise the harissa will be crazy spicy! Finely chop the peppers together.

Toast the cumin and coriander seeds in a small, dry skillet or saucepan over low heat for about 1 to 2 minutes, or until fragrant. Meanwhile, whack the garlic with the side of your knife a few times to crush it.

Grind the toasted seeds in a mortar and pestle or food processor until they’re pretty fine, then add the garlic and grind to a paste.

Stir in the chopped peppers, lemon juice, vinegar, salt, smoked paprika, and tomato paste. Once again, grind or process to a paste, pulling out any of the papery pepper skins as you work. Add the olive oil and then pass everything through a food mill or medium ­mesh sieve.