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Butter Noodles with Melting Onions and Cabbage

Photo: Nico Schinco

"I like to describe this dish as the Eastern European butter noodle. It’s the dish you make when the thought of dinner just seems too overwhelming. This would be one of those dishes children especially would look forward to; it’s so simple but brings you straight back to childhood with every single bite. The cabbage and onions are slowly cooked until melted and sweet, then tossed with tender egg noodles and a hearty crack of black pepper for a mild kick. The extra dollop of softened butter in each serving bowl is a must: Mixing the butter with the noodles and watching it emulsify into a glossy, silky sauce was my favorite part growing up."

—James Beard Award Winner® Carolina Gelen, Pass the Plate

Ingredients

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  • 1⁄3 cup neutral oil, such as sunflower or grapeseed, plus more as needed
  • 1½ tablespoons coarsely cracked black peppercorns, plus more for serving
  • 3 medium yellow onions, sliced ¼ inch thick
  • Kosher salt
  • 3-pound head green cabbage, cut into ¼-inch-wide slices
  • 1 pound egg noodles, or pasta such as tagliatelle or pappardelle
  • 8 to 12 tablespoons salted butter, at room temperature, for serving

Method

In a large pot, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the cracked pepper and fry until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the onion and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the cabbage and continue cooking, stirring frequently, until the cabbage and onion are both a deep golden brown and there’s a golden-brown crust forming at the bottom of the pot, 25 to 30 minutes. If the pot looks dry, add another tablespoon or so of oil to help the cabbage fry and caramelize.

While the cabbage cooks, bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil over medium-high heat. Add the noodles and cook for 3 minutes less than what the package calls for, so they’re a little undercooked. Remove the pot from the heat.

Using tongs or a slotted spoon, add the pasta directly to the cabbage and onion and stir to combine. Add about ½ cup of pasta water and scrape the bottom of the pan to release all the browned, flavorful bits from the bottom of the pan. Add more pasta water as needed to help create a thin but silky sauce that clings to the noodles. Taste and season with more salt as needed. Remove the pot from the heat.

Divide the noodles among bowls and top each bowl with 2 tablespoons of salted butter and more freshly cracked black pepper. Enjoy watching the butter melt in each bowl, stir until glossy and creamy.

Yield

Serves 4 to 6

Reprinted with permission from Pass The Plate: 100 Delicious, Highly Shareable, Everyday Recipes: A Cookbook by Carolina Gelen. Copyright © 2024 by Gelen Media LLC. Photographs copyright © 2024 by Nico Schinco. Published by Clarkson Potter, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Penguin Random House LLC, New York.