TasteTwenty Chef Elmer Dulla’s Seattle Dining Guide
Ahead of his Taste America Seattle event, the owner of familyfriend shares his must-try bites, from Filipino comfort food to exclusive sushi to seasonal soft serve.
Chef Elmer Dulla at his restaurant, familyfriend
Fri, October 17, 2025
Editor’s Note: The James Beard Foundation’s Taste America® culinary series presented by Capital One brings together chefs, special guests, and diners from across the country to celebrate the local independent restaurants at the heart of our communities. The Taste America TasteTwenty cohort, comprised of 20 exceptional chefs and changemakers, will showcase their talents and represent their city’s independent restaurant community at walkaround tastings and dinners nationwide.
These chefs are not only creative dynamos in the kitchen, they're also avid diners, so we’re introducing a special city guide series where each TasteTwenty chef will share what they love about their city’s food scene.
Next up in our series is Elmer Dulla, chef/owner of James Beard Award semifinalist® familyfriend, a Guamanian restaurant in Seattle. Discover his favorite places to eat, drink, and shop, including his go-to spot to impress visitors, the specialty market with an amazing hot food bar, and the special occasion spot where he celebrated his restaurant's James Beard Award semifinalist® nomination.
The seafood kelaguen tostada at familyfriend combines Guamanian and Mexican influences.
What does it mean to be part of the JBF Taste America TasteTwenty cohort?
It humbles and excites me to imagine what this opportunity has already brought—and will continue to bring—to the evolving modern dining scene. I was born and raised in Guam, and for me, it's deeply important to represent a cultural shift: to introduce Guamanian flavors, raise awareness of our heritage, and highlight our contributions to contemporary cuisine.
What has long been considered “simple food” deserves its place at the table—reimagined with elevated flavors but still rooted in authenticity. There's a growing momentum for education, preservation, and pride in where we come from, and I’m committed to continuing that journey. I aim to lead by example—not as a pillar above others, but shoulder to shoulder with the community. With compassion for both the team and our guests, I believe in building something meaningful, together.
What do you love about the food scene in your city?
I love the history and the stories of the places we eat and spend our time at, the ones that have the resilient stories behind them amongst a city that grew too fast. Being surrounded by the lush fruits and vegetables, micro-seasons, and appreciating the multiple bodies of waters surrounding us.
The exterior dining space at familyfriend.
Go-to spot to take visitors:
The Boat. It has a small and precise menu. It’s just an all-around flavor circus. My favorite dishes are: Cà phê mát—the flavor profile of the Vietnamese coffee balanced with the viscosity of the coconut water makes me want to order a second one; mi trôn—garlic chicken with dry egg noodles and Maggi pineapple pate sauce, and chrysanthemum salad (my favorite part!); and for something sweet, the bánh kep, Vietnamese waffles with coconut cloud topped with salty sesame peanuts.
Must-try dish in your city:
Seattle Fish Guys’ fried salmon collar with white rice, seaweed salad, and baby scallop poke. The price point, taste, and staff are great.
Best special occasion restaurant:
Sushi Kaunta offers an intimate and thoughtfully crafted omakase experience. Chef Sean Hyun brings a deeply personal touch to each seating. At the start of the meal, he walks diners through the lineup, sharing the origins of each fish and the story behind his choices, adding a layer of transparency and connection that deepens the dining experience. The space is small and intimate, but what it lacks in size it more than makes up for in warmth. There’s no excessive showmanship—just chef Sean’s genuine hospitality and exquisite food. It’s a reminder that exceptional sushi doesn’t need spectacle—just intention, passion, and care.
Good times we have celebrated at Sushi Kaunta include [familyfriend being named to] the New York Times “50 Best Restaurants in America 2024” and [being named] a James Beard Award semifinalist® for Best New Restaurant in 2025.
The simple yet flavor-packed corn soup is one of familyfriend's must-order dishes.
What does an ideal night out in your city look like?
Seasonal soft serve at Homer (past favorite flavors include cherry blossom, cantaloupe, and corn); pasta at Serafina, especially the seafood spaghetti with langoustine, prawn, Calabrian sofrito, and black garlic breadcrumbs; mushroom and allium pizza at Tivoli (always add house-made hot honey and Calabrian chili crisp); and a nightcap at Ohana—a shot of well tequila and a Hawaiian Sun Lilikoi-Passionfruit drink on the rocks.
What restaurant are you most looking forward to checking out?
LTD Edition Sushi—I could never get a seat!
Restaurant dish you’d cry over if they took it off the menu:
Mushroom Broccoli Doria at Fort St. George. I’ve been eating this dish since I moved to Seattle in the early 2000s. Its richness and creaminess always bring me comfort and joy.
Favorite food/drink specialty shop:
Fou Lee Market on Beacon Hill has an amazing selection of ingredients for Asian and Pacific Islander dishes as well as an amazing hot-cafeteria-style section. I love the beef kaldereta, a Filipino stew. The tenderness of the beef, paired with the texture of the potatoes glazed in savory tomato sauce—it's pure nostalgia. Dinuguan, a Filipino stew made with pork, pork blood, vinegar, and spices—the rich texture of the stew, combined with the acidity of the vinegar and the funkiness of the innards, paired with a bowl of hot, steaming rice—it’s too good.
Baked char siu bao—Chinese barbecued pork tucked into a soft milk bread bun with a sweet crispy crust—has recently been the go-to snack/breakfast grab for me and my staff.
Who is another chef you admire in your city (and why)?
Chef Sean Arakaki of Itsumono. His presentation of food represents Hawaiian culture in modern day Seattle; it’s refreshing in all the ways! The dishes are innovative creations of everyone’s favorite familiar flavors but with surprises and done perfectly.