Ask a Chef: Matthew Dolan on Sustainable Seafood and San Francisco Eats

 

At his pair of superb San Francisco eateries, Twenty Five Lusk and Tap [415], chef and co-owner Matthew Dolan combines his classic European technique with Northern California ingredients and sensibilities. For his Beard House reprise, Dolan will delight seafood lovers with a decadent and sustainability-minded feast, proving just how delicious conscious consumption can be. In anticipation of his dinner, we spoke to the industry vet about perfecting his octopus preparation, some of his favorite places to dine in the Bay Area, and why he'll eat any and all types of pizza. ... Read more >

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Overheard at the 2016 JBF Book, Broadcast & Journalism Awards

JBF Award winners Steven Cook and Michael Solomonov

 

Put a bunch of writers, producers, journalists, and media hosts in a room together, and you’re bound to get a few worthy bon mots. Here are some of our favorite quotable lines from last night’s Book, Broadcast & Journalism Awards, which capped a celebratory evening with hilarious and inspiring sentiments.

 

“I thought you had to grow a beard for this event.”—Steven Cook, International Award and Cookbook of the Year Award winner with Michael Solomonov for Zahav: A World of Israeli Cooking

 

“A toast to my wife, who as a female computer scientist faces some of the same struggles as female chefs, and to all the... Read more >

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Eat This Word: Madeleines

 

WHAT? Sweet seashells. These delicate, scallop-shaped cookies have a history that long predates Proust's memory stimulant. Culinaria France recounts what sounds like a legend to us, that the cookies first became popular back in the 18th-century, when the Duke of Lorraine, a consummate party host, found himself short a pastry chef while entertaining one night. With no time to spare, the Duke was forced to turn to his chambermaid Madeleine to create sweets for his guests. She whipped up her grandmother's airy, bite-sized cakes and, thus, the madeleine was born. Chances are her grandmother, if she existed, came from Commercy, the town whose bakers have been known for centuries throughout France for their delicate, hump-back madeleines. The batter is a simple mixture of eggs, sugar, and flour; it is a molded... Read more >

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Interview with JBF Award Nominee Angela Dimayuga of Mission Chinese Food

Angela Dimayuga of Mission Chinese Food in New York City

 

At Danny Bowien's second incarnation of Mission Chinese Food, executive chef Angela Dimayuga presides over one of New York City's most ambitious and idiosyncratic menus. (Where else can you find both caviar service and "hot cheese pizza" on offer?) But the 2016 Rising Star Chef nominee and her team's throw-it-at-the-wall-and-see-what-sticks approach goes beyond the kitchen: Dimayuga is also an advocate for work-life balance and effective management, and she's willing to think creatively in her pursuit for a better workplace culture. Below, find her tips for fostering a healthy and productive kitchen staff, her recommendations for ordering off the current MCF menu, and her highlights from a recent trip to South Korea. 

 

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JBF: We read your piece on Grub Street... Read more >

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The 2016 Book, Broadcast, and Journalism Awards: Complete Winner Recap

 

Thanks for joining us for the 2016 Book, Broadcast, and Journalism Awards! Here's the full list of tonight's winners. Congratulations to all! 

 

2016 Book, Broadcast & Journalism Award Winners

 

The JBF Book, Broadcast & Journalism Awards are presented with leading support from Breville®, Goose Island Beer Co. and Lenox Tableware and Gifts. 
 

Book Awards   

 
American Cooking 
 
The Beetlebung Farm Cookbook
Chris Fischer with Catherine Young
(Little, Brown and Company)
 
 
Baking and Dessert  
 

Sourdough: Recipes for Rustic Fermented Breads, Sweets, Savories, and More
Sarah Owens
(Roost Books)
 
 
Beverage  
 
The Oxford Companion to Wine 
Jancis Robinson and Julia Harding
(Oxford University Press)
... Read more >

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The 2016 JBF Publication of the Year: Lucky Peach

The rapid flowering of food writing over the last couple of decades presents a cultural moment: why food, and why now? We know why we want to eat it: we’re hungry, and it tastes good. But why do we want to complicate matters and tell stories about it? When so much writing about the cultural products we consume—film, music, the fine arts—has begun to contract and wither, why has food writing flourished to an unprecedented degree?

 

It’s more than just the food. Sure, we’re obsessed with food and restaurants and cooking and ingredients and sourcing—each of these obsessions spawning its own set of political obsessions in turn. But we’re also language-obsessed. We tell stories about food because food gives us the opportunity to tell stories we haven’t told about ourselves, in a language that’s as elemental as anything on our plates.

 

And that’s where Lucky Peach comes in. Since 2011, when David Chang, Peter Meehan, and Chris Ying... Read more >

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2016 JBF Cookbook Hall of Fame: Deborah Madison

 

This award is given to a cookbook or body of work that has had a significant and enduring impact on the way we cook and understand food.

 

In an age when cookbook buyers shop with their eye trained on pretty pictures, it is a testament to Deborah Madison’s evocative writing that her most vaunted cookbook, the encyclopedic Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone (1997), has very few. The revised edition, The New Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone (2014), has no photographs at all. 

 

Madison is exacting in her scholarship and generous in her wisdom, a kitchen guide whose intention is to impart the knowledge that sets home cooks free from written recipes and instills the confidence to improvise according to the seasons or what’s at hand. Over the years, hundreds of readers have emailed her to extol the virtues of Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone, and she has seen “utterly destroyed copies in restaurants and monasteries, books with stai

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Recipe: Mint Pappardelle with Morels from Marc Vetri's JBF Award–Nominated "Mastering Pasta" Cookbook

Photo: Ed Anderson

 

JBF Award winner Marc Vetri has a noodle for noodles. The pasta professional has won accolades and leagues of fans for the vibrant regional Italian cooking at his Vetri Family restaurant group in Philadelphia, and recently divulged his dough dos and don’ts in his new cookbook, Mastering Pasta: The Art and Practice of Handmade Pasta, Gnocchi, and Risotto, which was written with David Joachim and nominated for the JBF Award for Cookbook: Single Subject. Covering over 30 types of pasta dough from egg yolk to flavored pastas like this perfect-for-spring Mint Pappardelle with Morels, Vetri’s tome traverses the Italian culinary landscape, providing both traditional and innovative takes to ensure that home cooks always have a pot of boiling water on the stove.... Read more >

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Ask the Chefs: Diego Galicia and Rico Torres on San Antonio's Dining Scene

 

Mixtli’s small space belies the impressive ambitions of its staff: every six weeks, the kitchen presents a fresh new menu that showcases ingredients and techniques from one of Mexico’s 31 states, a concept that JBF Award–winning food personality Andrew Zimmern has praised as “brilliant, progressive Mexican cuisine.” Later this week, Mixtli's own Diego Galicia and Rico Torres will showcase their progressive Mexican cuisine at the Beard House for a dinner filled with ceviche, mole, and more. In anticipation of their event, we spoke to the two toques about their Beard House inspiration, the best advice they've ever received, and the best date-night spot in San Antonio's booming dining scene.

 

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What is your inspiration behind the menu... Read more >

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Interview with JBF Award Nominee Matt Rudofker of NYC’s Momofuku Ssäm Bar

 

After rising through the ranks at Vetri, Daniel, and London’s Fat Duck, Matt Rudofker caught the eye of industry titan David Chang, who has given him executive chef duties at not one, but two anchors of the international Momofuku empire, Má Pêche and Momofuku Ssäm Bar in New York City. We chatted with the 2016 Beard Award nominee for Rising Star Chef of the Year about the most enticing new dishes on his menus, his favorite local haunts, and a precarious competition in the Ssäm Bar kitchen. 

 

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JBF: Your first cooking gig was at Vetri in your hometown of Philadelphia. Were there any great lessons from that experience that have shaped you as a chef?

 

Matt Rudofker: I learned quite a lot of great lessons there, but the two things that always stuck with me are:... Read more >

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