Eye Candy: Montauk Yellowfin Tuna with Tangelo–White Soy Purée, Tempura Cilantro, and Sea BeansMaggie Borden
March 31, 2016
Charming waterfront hot spot Dave’s Grill has some of Montauk’s toughest seats to snag during the summer, but Beard House guests were in for a treat when this seasonal showstopper relocated to West 12th Street for a winter seafood feast. Chef Michael Bingham presented a sensational surfeit of surf and turf, delighting diners with dynamite dishes like Crispy Pork Belly with Thai Curry, Cilantro, and Charred Scallion Oil (get the recipe here); Slow-Scrambled Long Island Duck Eggs with Duck Sausage and Kimchi Rice; and Golden Tilefish with Cauliflower Purée, Chimichurri, Roasted Oyster Mushrooms, and Bay Leaf Oil. But one of the most memorable dishes was this arresting plate which opened the night’s tasting menu. Bingham lived up to his beachside kitchen cred, allowing the unctuous, meaty tuna at the heart of the dish to shine, while the rest of the components added contrasting pops of citrus, salt, and an addictive crunch from the tempura cilantro. In just a few bites, the dish set the standard for the evening, a high bar which Bingham leapt over nimbly, course after course.
Maggie Borden is assistant editor at the James Beard Foundation. Find her on Instagram.