At the Beard House last month, we watched summer recede and the flavors of fall advance. Below, our editors' favorite dishes from September.
Cresta de Gallo Pasta with Hen of the Woods Mushrooms, Roasted Yeast, and Parmesan / Chef Collaboration
"I was especially taken with by this dinner’s pasta course. The pasta, molded in the shape of a rooster’s crest, had a dense enough texture to stand out amongst the robust mushrooms, while the yeast and Parmesan foam hit some soulful and satisfying umami notes. The dish is straight from the menu of the Pass and Provisions in Houston, so I just might have to take a trip to the Lone Star state soon."
—Maggie Borden, Assistant Editor
Tomato Sandwich / South by Northeast: A Civil Creation
"Barry Maiden may be a two-time Best Chef: Northeast nominee, but his roots are in southwest Virginia. (He and Sean Brock graduated from the same high school.) I loved his free-form, France-meets-the-South spin on a B.L.T.: cherry tomatoes from that day’s Union Square greenmarket, pain de mie (a sweet bread that the French use for sandwiches), basil, bacon, and John Currence’s mayonnaise, a recipe that was developed and fine-tuned to taste like the popular Duke’s brand."
—Senior Editor, Anna Mowry
Cavatelli with Ricotta, Spicy Tomatoes, and Basil / Modern Venetian
"This dish from chef Chris Jaeckle’s Venetian-inspired Beard House tasting sounds like a standard-issue primo, but two unusual ingredients in the cavatelli added unexpected spark: lemon zest and fresh ginger. Jaeckle folded the aromatics directly into mixture for the fresh dough, paying homage to Venice's spice trade roots."
—Senior Editor, Elena North-Kelly
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